Nesting Chinese Pagoda Boxes

These handy fabric boxes will be one of the quick projects offered at the Dundee TOGA in September.  Traditionally they are made to fold flat and secured as boxes with a loop and Chinese knot.  Missionaries to China have blessed me a few that are handy for small clutter in my office and sewing area.   Click here for a PDF version.

Chinese Pagoda Boxes

(so named for the appearance they have when evenly filled with clutter and stacked on my desk)

Photo enhanced instructions or variations for securing the corners (the first is was the inspiration for the TOGA class):

"          http://sewmamasew.com/2010/12/jennifers-fabric-focus-happy-hostess-gift-box-pattern/

or directly to the pdf: 

"          http://www.sewmamasew.com/december2010/SMSHappyHostessBox3.pdf

More:

"          http://perpetualplum.wordpress.com/2008/02/16/building-a-basket-using-vintage-fabrics-and-grommets/

"          http://chickchicksewing.blogspot.com/2010/08/fabric-tray-tutorial.html

"          http://heatherbailey.typepad.com/heather_bailey/2011/01/tray_tutorial.html

"          http://www.skiptomylou.org/2011/09/13/fabric-trays/

Snaps or the traditional Chinese loop and knot are also ways to secure the corner, allowing for flat storage and transport.  Fusible vinyl can be used to make the inside water resistant.  These boxes can be made square or rectangular.  The key to the corner and depth is the square corner that determines the stitching line and fold line.  Coordinating fat quarters and layer cake squares are ideal for the project but the box measurements may vary from those suggested below.

"         For square nesting boxes, cut 2 squares of fabric and one stiff fusible interfacing (Pellon Décor Bond): 

o        Fabric:  2 @ 7.5“ (4 inch box, 1.5 inches deep)  Interfacing:  1 @ 7”

o        Fabric:  2 @ 10 “ (6 inch box, 1.75 inches deep)  Interfacing:  1 @ 9.5”

o        Fabric:  2 @ 12.5” (8 inch box, 2 inches deep)  Interfacing:  1 @ 12”

"         Center and fuse interfacing to the fabric that will be the inside of the box.  Follow manufacturer’s instructions for method and recommendations.  Pre-washed fabric pressed with no starch fuses best.

"         Right sides together sew squares together with a ¼ inch seam allowance (follow edge of interfacing).  Leave an opening on one side to turn.

"         Trim corners, turn and press.

"         Topstitch 1/8 inch around all edges of square.

"         Mark the same size square in all corners as suggested in cutting instructions for depth). 

"         Fold on the diagonal of the square to match edges of box at each corner and sew to secure the corner on the marked line(s).

"         Congratulations!  You are done!

4-H Quilt Camp 2013: Where did all the boys go?

Lurking but Productive

It's been too long!  I have been lurking in the shadows productive but silent.  Knitting, sewing, and quilting have been my diversions since my last post.  

Knitting seems to keep my hands busy when I don't want to start a big project or go down and heat up my sewing area in the basement.  Here is a recent hat I made for a charity project with some donated Lion Brand Jiffy yarn.  The large knitting knobby/spool makes a cute flower embellishment.

 

And a cowl from Turvid's one row lace scarf pattern to match:

 

The hat is a top down adaptation of a pattern from Ravelry called The Republic Hat by Nicole Reeves.  I tried using a long tail cast-on for socks, using just 7 stitches.  The sock cast-on is easier to manage with 2 24 inch cable needles than the usual cast-ons for top down hats.  If the knitting inspector doesn't look closely, they never notice.  ;)

The cowl is 24 stitches on size 11 needles.  I knit until I had 27 inches then finished off the piece as instructed for a scarf.  With a 180 degree rotation on one end, I whipped stitch both ends together, stitch for stitch.  The pair make a classy looking gift for anyone or those confined to wheelchairs who feel drafts indoors any season.

Last week's sewing project used up a one yard remnant of fabric.  I now have a curtain and valance to dress up the small room/side entry off the kitchen.  

Last Sunday, I warmed up the HQ 16 and quilted Indy's quilt.  Now binding and special label are all that remain to that project that is as old as he, 17 months tomorrow.

With 4-H quilting camp coming up, I hope to have some lovely quilts to show off for the next entry.

Gauge Challenged

Did I say I was gauge challenged?  If not, the secret is out now.  Achieving gauge with a swatch and duplicating it in a project is a skill that eludes me.  A swatch may match the recommended stitch count but matching it in the project is rare.  If I easily achieve stitches per inch, the row count is next to impossible.  My only hope is that the row count is not a required element.

Zuzu's Petals is an easy and fast knit if everything works out right.  I met the stitch count per inch with size 9 circs but somewhere before joining in the round for the neck opening, I realized my big head just wasn't going fit because the opening was dependent on row gauge.  I made a change to smaller needles because the finer yarn version has more row repeats and the worsted weight yarn I was working with was finer than most.  Switching needles worked so I went with the pattern repeats for more petals. 

Eventually, it became apparent that I might not have enough yarn.  The last pattern rounds I dared to knit were numbers 31 and 32, followed by a round to form points on the petals, and then a round of purling to control curling before I fiddled with binding off.  Ending my project was an easy solution to my diminishing yarn until I saw an error in the center back in round 32.  I figured the beauty of my yarn deserved perfection.

Un-knitting was tedious but only 4 rounds.  Perfection was not to be had.  After 3 attempts trying to achieve a loose bind-off and finally succeeding with a single crochet version, I found a dropped stitch in the lace around a petal.  At 1 a.m. one doesn't have any reserves or patience for back-knitting so I declared the project done and went to bed.  The slightly larger lace hole and missing stitch doesn't show but I know.  SIGH!!
 

The cowl was blocked this morning.  Pinned to a pressing mat, sprayed with a mixture of water and Shaklee's liquid fabric softener, and then blasted with the heat of a hand-held hair dryer; the edges have just a faint ripple that goes nicely with the texture of the lace pattern knit too tightly, something I found attractive.  The cowl is warm and soft with a beautiful painted pattern.  It will dress up a number of turtlenecks in my wardrobe.

BIG B, little b: What begins with B?

Baby's ball!

With fond memories of a crocheted ball a neighbor made my children when we lived in NE Portland in the '70s, I went looking for a pattern to knit a ball for my youngest grandson.  My search took me to Judy O'Brien's free pattern.  Her pattern is for sock yarn but with a couple of modifications, I thought it might work in this lovely self striping worsted that is virtually fuzz free.  After making the first ball, my own pattern emerged so I am offering it for you all to try. 

Finished Size:  About 18 inches in circumference

Supplies and Notions:

Self striping worsted weight and fuzz free anti-pilling yarn*

US 6 needles (double points or 2-24 inch circulars)

One or two stitch markers

Tapestry needle

Polyester Fiberfill

Gauge:

5-5 ½ spi  (specific gauge is not important, only that it is very tight so baby cannot pull out fiberfill)

Instructions:

Using Emily Ocker’s cast on: CO 4 stitches and divide evenly onto 2 circular needles, leaving an 8 inch tail.

All even rounds are knit.  Use a stitch marker to designate beginning of round.

Rnd 1:  K1fb around (8 sts)

Rnd 3:  K1, M1 around (16 sts)

Rnd 5:  K2, M1 around (24 sts)

Rnd 7:  K3, M1 around (32 sts)

Rnd 9:  K4, M1 around (40 sts)

Rnd 11:  K5, M1 around (48 sts)

Rnd 15:  K6, M1 around (56 sts)

Rnd 17:  K7, M1 around (64 sts)

Rnd 19:  K8, M1 around (72 sts)

Rnd 21:  K9, M1 around (80 sts)   

Rnd 22:  Place a stationary marker at the beginning of round and knit even for about 26 rounds.

Decrease to close ball.  All even rounds are knit until round 18. 

Rnd 1:  K8, K2tog around (72 sts)

Rnd 3:  K7, K2tog around (64 sts)

Rnd 5:  K6, K2tog around (56 sts)

Rnd 7:  K5, K2tog around (48 sts)

Rnd 9:  K4, K2tog around (40 sts)

Rnd 11:  K3, K2tog around (32 sts)

Rnd 13:  K2, K2tog around (24 sts)  Start stuffing ball with fiberfill.

Rnd 15:  K1, K2tog around (16 sts)  Continue stuffing ball.

Rnd 17:  K2tog around (8 sts)  Make sure ball is firmly filled with fiberfill.

Rnd 18:  K2tog around (4 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving an 8 inch tail.  Run yarn through the loops with a tapestry needle and remove knitting needles.  Pull yarn tight and run through loops again to fasten off.  Hide end inside ball.

*I Love this Yarn! from HobbyLobby or Deborah Norville Everyday Soft Worsted are good easy care choices for this project.

Another Pumpkin Joined the Patch

Jack-o'-Lantern Bib

I have been waiting for the opportunity to make this bib.  It's fall, I love faces on pumpkins, and my little 9 month old grandson looks great in orange so with a little free time on my hands, I just had to whip it up.   Indy will be with me on Friday so maybe we'll even have a live model for a photo shoot. 

The design of the neckline is particularly practical since the bib extends to shoulders but tapers in for the chest.  When Indy turns his head, he won't rub food on his shirt, a problem I have noticed with the design of the bibs he currently wears.  I intend to incorporate this design feature into future longer bibs with food pockets for everyday wear.  If you need a freebie bib to embellish for the holidays, there are plenty on the internet.  You might check out this blog for more ideas and a pattern:  Just Another Hang Up

This Jack-o'-Lantern Bib pattern is also in Quick Creative Quilting, a book I have had on the shelf for years.  The book currently appears to be a bargain at Amazon so for the price of shipping, you would have many more patterns than just the one for the bib.  And please note that the neckline runs small on this pattern. 

Update:  I just found another great bib pattern in a Sew Daily freebie.  It runs longer, with a larger neck opening (and some cute fruit and veggie appliques); perfect for the toddlers on your sewing list:  Sew Daily (4 Free Easy Sewing Patterns)

Pumpkin Patch Hats

Callum's Hat

Helen's Hat

Indy's Hat

The family is gathering for a fall cookout and all the little ones have pumpkin patch hats.  Callum's hat is Rib-A-Roni:  http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/rib-a-roni

From some of the comments on Ravelry, there were a few that said Rib-A-Roni ran small.  I made the youth size making gauge at one rib per inch for a 3 year old and it is small.

Helen's Hat is Spiralini adapted for an 18 month old:  http://www.ravelry.com/projects/myshellyknit/spiralini-hat

This one runs large due to the slouch and my gauge.  I started with 72 stitches (4 spi) in the ribbing and then increased to 80 stitches for the body, knitting even for a total of about 5.5 inches for the length before decreasing.  The decreases are based on a 10 stitch repeat so there were no further changes.  If I had been thinking, I could have changed the swirl to a 8 stitch repeat.  That would have resulted in more sections but the swirl lines would have lined up with the ribbing like the designer's.  Helen's curling vines are crocheted.

Indy's hat is has a roll brim with 64 stitches (4 spi).  After the 2 inches of deep orange in stockinette, there is an 7x1 rib (knit 7 stitches, purl 1).  Total length before decreasing, is 5 inches.  This hat runs a bit small for this 9 month old but I have enough yarn to make another one for next year.  ;)

Hopefully, Callum's and Helen's hats will fit and we'll have a Pumpkin Patch Kids picture.

Update:  The day for the cookout was too warm for hats.  Callum politely refused to pose with Helen and Indy, so the picture below is my consolation.  Callum's hat ran small and Helen's is a bit large, most likely she will be able to wear hers next fall, too.